A long time ago, a legend took root in the Dordogne, France. In times of need and desperation, people always sought to look up and maintain hope – hope for a better future and hope for safety. Allow me to share a story of that hope, which was held by the ancient inhabitants of our village, long before our time.
The village of Pontours, named after the tower bridge that once stood, was, for many decades, a dreaded obstacle for merchants and travelers alike. To venture south, one had to cross the formidable Dordogne River, with Pontours and Lalinde offering two of the few shallow crossings. Despite appearing deceptively safe with its clear bottom, many attempted to traverse it by foot or boat. However, the current, already strong, used to be even more relentless, claiming the lives of hundreds. Boats would capsize, taking their passengers with them, while others would succumb to the rushing waters, unable to fight against the force. But was it solely the swift river causing such tragedies, or were the haunting tales told to children at bedtime also to blame? Could there truly have been something or someone lurking in the shallow depths of the River Dordogne?
As the legend goes, there was a cave high above the cliffs of the river where a serpent, a water dragon, or an atrocity of an unearthly reptile was living. Some people described it with fangs, vicious reptilian eyes, a skin made of armored scales, and wings – it was the most frightening thing, the Coulobre, as they called it. It kidnapped people and drew animals into its lair to devour them, leaving nothing but bones behind. The villagers were desperate and didn’t know what to do; the future looked bleak. However, where there is hope, there is a way. One brave villager took it upon himself to journey to Perigeux, the capital of the Perigord, to seek the help of a bishop.
This bishop’s name was Sir Front and he chose according to one legend violence to defeat the water dragon. He lured him with great speech out of his lair and the Coulobre appeared in front of him. He shot him, fearlessly with a bow and an arrow with fire, till the excruciating pain caused the dragon to lose his balance and plunge into the river. Another legend is that with a special sword, he was killed and Sir Front blew the last thrust into the heart of the beast before his ending. (A few different stories are told about the ending but these are the most spectacular ones). The dragon, according to this lore fell back into the waters where he roamed and killed so many and it is said that in summer when the water in the Dordogne River is very low, you could see his fossilized vertebra on the bottom of the river. But some will only see boulders or big rocks…
To thank the great Sir Front for his effort and his bravery, the people built a chapel on the steep cliff that overlooks the Dordogne River and the village of Lalinde. Bishop Front was after this known as the Holy Front or Saint Front. The little chapel got his name, as well as the next village direction Bergerac, Couze et St. Front. The chapel can still be visited and stands tall with its intriguing history in a beautiful green mossed environment. In the summer there is a Coulobre festival and you will find from time to time artwork around Lalinde in the form of a dragon. Also on the market square in Lalinde is a bustling restaurant since 1970 named after this creature.
Some people believe that long ago, St. Front didn’t kill the Coulobre. Instead, it’s said that he used his willpower to make the Coulobre stay away from human lands. The Coulobre supposedly went west and was last spotted heading towards the ocean. Legends say that the creature is now waiting for a chance to seek revenge and emerge from the depths of the Dordogne River again.
If you are a foodie who loves to explore new flavors and experiences, you might want to try truffle hunting in the Dordogne region of France with our local guide Xavier Mathiaud from Ma Terre Premiere.
Truffles are delicates that grow underground near the roots of certain trees, such as oak, hazel, and beech. They are highly prized for their rich aroma and flavor and can fetch very high prices in the market. Some of the most famous types of truffles are the black Périgord trufflesfrom the Dordogne.
Truffle hunting is a traditional activity that involves searching for these hidden delicacies with the help of trained animals, such as dogs or pigs (or even flies..). The animals can sniff out the truffles and dig them up, while the hunter follows them with a special tool called a truffle hook or a truffle knife. The hunter must be careful not to damage the truffles or the surrounding soil, as this can affect the future growth of the fungus.
How to Find Truffles in the Dordogne
The Dordogne is one of the best places to find truffles in France, as it has a favorable climate and soil for their development. The truffle season runs from November to March. During this time, you can find many truffle markets and festivals in the region, where you can buy fresh or preserved truffles, as well as other products made with them, such as oils, cheeses, chocolates, and wines.
If you want to experience truffle hunting yourself
You can book a tour with Xavier, a local truffle expert who will guide you through his own truffle farm. Xavier runs Ma Terre Première, (www.materrepremiere.fr) where you can learn more about his passion and services. He will show you how to find and harvest truffles and share with you his knowledge and secrets about these mysterious foods. You will also get to taste some of his homemade truffle products!
La Maison Louverie has a special autumn deal for you to enjoy the Dordogne even more
La Maison Louverie is a cozy and elegant Perigourdine house just 25 minutes from Bergerac (airport), 45 minutes from Sarlat, and 30 minutes from St. Alvere with its famous truffle market. ( Fly with Transavia, RyanAir, or Flybe)
Stay with 2 for only € 224 a night* in Chambre Truffe on the ground floor.
Or book with 6 for just € 63 p.p.p.n**. (Chambre Figure, 2 pers | Chambre Noix, 2 pers)
Book between the 16th of September and mid-December 2023 and get a goody box with homemade jams, walnuts, and hazelnuts for your winter stock and your Christmas holidays.
Don’t miss this opportunity to discover the magic of truffles in the beautiful Autumn Dordogne.
You are persuaded that you need this holiday and experience this autumn but still have questions? Contact us.
A bientôt at La Maison Louverie!
*Book for a minimum of 4 nights, € 224 a night for 2 people. Stay in the large bedroom downstairs – Chambre Truffe- with an attached bathroom. The pool open till the end of October 2023
**Book 1 or 2 rooms extra for € 75 a night each. No minimum nights. The rooms Chambre Figue and Chambre Noix on the first floor are both available for this Autumn deal and both have a private bathroom. max 2 guests per room.
Are you looking for a place to escape the crowds and enjoy the rustic beauty and tranquility of nature? Do you want to experience the authentic charm and luxury of French living? If so, you should visit La Maison Louverie, a 4* awarded holiday home that offers you everything you need for a perfect getaway.
La Maison Louverie is located in Pontours, in the Perigord Pourpre region of the Dordogne, famous for its exquisite cuisine, fine wines, and stunning scenery. You can explore the rich history and culture of the area, with medieval towns like Sarlat-la-Canéda and Bergerac nearby, or enjoy outdoor activities like hiking, biking, canoeing, or golfing.
But what makes September and October the best time to visit this region? Well, there are many reasons why you should fall in love with the Dordogne in autumn:
The weather is pleasant and mild, with plenty of sunshine and moderate rainfall. The average daytime temperature in September is around 24°C (75°F), while in October it is around/above 19°C (66°F). The nights are cool and comfortable, with average lows of 12°C (54°F) in September and 10°C (49°F) in October. You can expect about 5 hours of sunshine per day in both months and about only 4 days of rain per month.
The forests are beautiful in color, with shades of red, orange, yellow, and green. You can admire the changing foliage as you walk or bike through the woods, or take a scenic drive along the country roads. You can also visit some of the most beautiful and romantic gardens in France, where you can enjoy the colors and scents of nature.
There are fewer tourists, which means more peace and quiet for you. You can avoid the crowds and queues at popular attractions, such as chateaux, prehistoric caves, and villages. You can also get better deals on accommodation, flights, and car rentals.
There are extraordinary things to do that are unique to this season. For example, you can join a truffle tour or a regional cookery class and learn about the local gastronomy. You can also taste the new wine harvest at one of the many vineyards in the area. Or you can treat yourself to a balloon flight with Montgolfière. Périgord Dordogne Montgolfières (perigord-dordogne-montgolfieres.com) and see the Dordogne from above. This is an unforgettable experience that will let you admire the breathtaking views of the castles, villages, rivers, and forests in their autumn glory.
So, as you can see, there are many reasons why you should visit La Maison Louverie in September and October. You can relax on the terrace with a glass of wine and admire the views, or cozy up by the fireplace with a good book. You can swim in your private pool or take a stroll in the woods. You can savor the delicious local cuisine and visit the nearby attractions. You can create memories that will last a lifetime.
Don’t miss this opportunity to experience the authentic charm and French living at La Maison Louverie. Book your stay today and get ready for an unforgettable adventure.
If you are looking for a magical and unforgettable experience in the Dordogne region of France, you should not miss the candlelight evenings in the Marqueyssac Gardens and the boat trip in the Padirac caves. These are two of the most amazing attractions in the area, and they will leave you breathless with their beauty and charm.
The candlelight evenings in the Marqueyssac Gardens are a unique event that takes place every Thursday evening in July and August, from 7 pm until midnight. The gardens are illuminated by over 2000 candles, creating a fairy-tale atmosphere that invites you to explore the winding paths, the exotic plants, and the stunning views over the Dordogne valley. You can also enjoy live music, dancing, and entertainment on the terrace of the chateau, or relax in one of the many romantic spots along the way. The candlelight evenings are a perfect way to discover the Marqueyssac Gardens, which are considered one of the most beautiful gardens in France.
The boat trip in the Padirac caves is another must-see attraction that will take you on a journey to the center of the earth. The Padirac caves are one of the most famous caves in Europe, and they are home to a subterranean river that flows through spectacular galleries and chambers. You can access the caves by a lift or stairs, and then board a boat that will take you along the river for about 500 meters. You will marvel at the incredible formations, such as the Grande Pendeloque, a 60-meter-high stalactite that hangs over the Lac de la Pluie, or the Salle du Grand Dôme, with its 94-meter-high vault. The boat trip is an unforgettable adventure that will make you feel like you are in another world.
Padirac caves: You can contact them by phone at 05 65 33 64 37 or by email at info@gouffre-de-padirac.com. www.gouffre-de-padirac.com for more information and online ticketing. Their address is le Bourg, 46500 Padirac, France.
Last week we had a squirrel in the garden. Not so common for us. We usually see them as road kill between the river and the forest – not so nice. But this one was alive and free to admire.
We have the benefit of having some walnut trees in the fruit orchard. Simon, as we call our new garden pet, was munching away on the nuts he could find. Simon, however, has a big appetite, no let us rephrase that; a huge appetite. After we noticed him around -it was hard not to constantly hear his teeth gnawing on the hard shells-, no nut has been found since. The other theory is that the late frost we had this year damaged the budding flowers on the trees and therefore the fruit could not grow. We can blame Simon.. or Mother Nature. Anyway, we have no nuts this year. (but still 125 kilos stored in the barn from last year. Hope Simon cannot open barn doors.)
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This brings us to the best find we had this year.
Monpazier is voted number 11 on the list of France’s 20 most beautiful villages. To be honest, the first time we visited this village in March 2015 we were not very impressed. At all.
We send guests to the places we think are special, remarkable, full of history, or a must-see. We have read that Monpazier was voted one of these nice places. Not saying we agreed. But we totally changed our mind! Monpazier is back on the list.
With some investments made, the marketplace looks great (or we got used to the French ‘forgotten glory’ state of buildings) There were flowers, there was life, but above all, we were happily surprised with new cafes and shops.
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The village sits on a hill looking out onto lush valleys. In the distance, you might get a glimpse of Chateau Biron (a must-visit). You drive into the ‘center ville’ through the stone gates of forgotten times and you end up in the market square. Which it is; a square. In virtually every corner you find something. We have Balthazar de la Bastide, a deco and interior shop with pottery and goodies for your garden. You can go back in time with a “Portrait photo en costume 1900” for men, women, and children. Another ‘Antiquities’ shop called La Petite Credence is to be found a few meters away and for your real French decoration stuff, you have to walk in at Gaya. A feel-good place where you find country-style clocks, metal-wired chicken, hardwood tables, and everything for a French touch in your home.
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A few years ago we ended up in the only open place in town. A restaurant with a white stone floor, with an atmosphere of a dead fly and after 2 pm almost nothing to eat, except soup… Time has changed, big time.
Outside this October sun kissed our skin, blue skies above, and mild temperatures surrounded us, well mild; we talk about 25 degrees in autumn.. Tourists are happily eating and drinking in the marketplace at the different cafes and restaurants. The food smells good and people seem genuinely content.
But we want to point out one cafe in particular. Outside there are nice tables and chairs lined up. Inside behind the glass entrance, we find a Starbucks-like-cozy-coffee place. Chesterfield seat, red stone brick wall, matching styling on the walls, all in theme and you understand the concept straight away. A nice bar with a school board and chalk paint writing. They have a real cappuccino, Latte macchiatos, and everything in between. (Normal cappuccino in France means it’s with wiped cream and a coffee with added milk: you order as a cafe crème. It is not with cream but with milk. Just to complicate things..) We are happily surprised with the coffee choices and the mugs that it’s served in. And then we find out they also have smoothies and organic food! And a brunch on Sunday with pancakes, sandwiches, and cheeses… What in the world…? So yes, it is possible. It is possible to have a modern place in the countryside of France called the Dordogne.
To check our (bad) French: ‘Doesn’t Ecureuil mean Squirrel?’ And yes it does! We are complimented by the nice staff. So also for that reason: Check the Ecureuil Cafe in Monpazier for GOOD coffee and breakfast/milkshakes/smoothies/snacks/brunch/lunch. Our best find this year.
If you are looking for a way to experience the authentic taste and culture of the Dordogne region, you should not miss the opportunity to visit its food markets. The food markets are where you can find the freshest and most delicious products of the local terroir, such as cheese, bread, wine, honey, truffles, foie gras, walnuts, strawberries, and more. You can also discover the craftsmanship and creativity of the local artisans, who offer a variety of goods such as pottery, jewelry, soap, candles, and textiles. The food markets are also a great place to mingle with the locals and enjoy the lively atmosphere and colorful sights.
The Dordogne region has a rich tradition of food markets, dating back to the Middle Ages. There are hundreds of food markets in the area, each with its own character and specialty. Some are small and cozy, while others are large and bustling. Some are held weekly, while others are seasonal or occasional. Some are focused on organic or artisanal products, while others offer a wide range of items. No matter what your preference or budget is, you will surely find a food market that suits your taste and needs.
To help you plan your visit to the food markets in the Dordogne, we have compiled a list of some of the best and most popular ones in the area. They are organized by day of the week, so you can easily find one that fits your schedule. They are also located in different towns and villages, so you can explore different parts of the region and enjoy its diverse scenery and history.
If you are staying at La Maison Louverie you will be happy to know that most of these food markets are within easy driving distance from your accommodation.
Here is some information about the distance and driving time from La Maison Louverie to each food market in the Dordogne:
Monday
Beynac: 22 km, 28 minutes
Les Eyzies: 24 km, 30 minutes
St. Alvere: 17 km, 23 minutes
Beynac is a small but charming market in a picturesque village on the banks of the Dordogne River. You can find fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and other local delicacies. You can also visit the impressive castle of Beynac, which dates back to the 12th century and offers stunning views of the valley.
Les Eyzies is a small market in a village famous for its prehistoric caves and museums. You can find some organic and artisanal products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, jam, soap, and more. You can also visit the National Museum of Prehistory or explore some of the caves that contain ancient paintings and sculptures.
St. Alvere is a cozy market in a village known for its truffle production. You can find some of the best truffles in the region, as well as other products such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Truffle Museum or join a truffle hunting tour.
Tuesday
Beaumont du Perigord: 19 km, 25 minutes
Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
Le Bugue: 14 km, 20 minutes
Tremolat: 6 km, 10 minutes
Beaumont du Perigord is a large market in a bastide town founded in 1272 by King Edward I of England. You can find a wide range of products such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also admire the medieval architecture and the fortified church of the town.
Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river.
Le Bugue is a lively market in a town on the Vezere river. You can find a variety of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the Aquarium of Perigord Noir or the Village of Bournat, a recreation of a 19th century village.
Tremolat is a charming market in a village on a bend of the Dordogne river. You can find some delicious products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of Tremolat or enjoy the view from the Cingle de Tremolat, a natural lookout point over the river.
Wednesday
Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
Le Buisson: 10 km, 15 minutes
Montignac: 38 km, 45 minutes
Perigueux: 46 km, 50 minutes
Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river .
Le Buisson is a small market in a town on the Dordogne river. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby castle of Commarque.
Montignac is a beautiful market in a town famous for its Lascaux caves. You can find some organic and artisanal products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, jam, soap, and more. You can also visit the Lascaux caves or the International Center for Cave Art, which are among the most impressive prehistoric sites in the world.
Perigueux is a large market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the cathedral of St Front or the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum.
Thursday
Domme: 29 km, 35 minutes
Lalinde: 6 km, 10 minutes
Monpazier: 25 km, 30 minutes
Tremolat: See Monday
Domme is a small market in one of the most beautiful villages in France. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also admire the panoramic view of the Dordogne Valley or visit the cave of Domme.
Lalinde is a lively market in a town on the Dordogne River. You can find a variety of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby abbey of Cadouin.
Monpazier is a lovely market in one of the best-preserved bastide towns in France. You can find some quality products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also admire the medieval architecture and the central square of the town.
Tremolat is a charming market in a village on a bend of the Dordogne River. You can find some delicious products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of Tremolat or enjoy the view from the Cingle de Tremolat, a natural lookout point over the river.
Friday
Le Buisson: See Wednesday
Riberac: 51 km, 1 hour
Riberac is a large market in a town that is famous for its foie gras production. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of St Sulpice or the Museum of Riberac.
Issigeac is a medieval village that dates back to the 13th century. It is located 23 km or 30 minutes away from La Maison Louverie. It has a large market every Sunday, where you can find a wide range of products such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. The market is very popular and attracts many visitors from near and far. You can also admire the historic architecture and the fortified church of the village, which have been preserved for centuries.
Issigeac is also known for its cultural events and festivals throughout the year. Some of the most famous ones are:
The Medieval Festival: This is a two-day event that takes place in July. It celebrates the history and heritage of Issigeac with music, dance, costumes, games, crafts, and food. You can see knights, jugglers, fire-eaters, magicians, and more. You can also participate in workshops and competitions or watch shows and demonstrations.
The Flower Festival: This is a one-day event that takes place in May. It showcases the beauty and diversity of flowers and plants in Issigeac. You can see hundreds of varieties of flowers and plants displayed in the streets, squares, gardens, and houses of the village. You can also buy flowers and plants from local producers or enjoy musical performances and exhibitions.
The Basket Festival: This is a one-day event that takes place in August. It honors the tradition and craftsmanship of basket making in Issigeac. You can see different types of baskets made from various materials such as wicker, straw, bamboo, and more. You can also buy baskets from local artisans or learn how to make your own basket.
Issigeac is a wonderful place to visit if you want to experience the authentic taste and culture of the Dordogne region. You will be amazed by its charm and elegance, as well as its lively and friendly atmosphere. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Issigeac and its market when you are staying at La Maison Louverie.
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