Last week we had a squirrel in the garden. Not so common for us. We usually see them as road kill between the river and the forest – not so nice. But this one was alive and free to admire.

We have the benefit of having some walnut trees in the fruit orchard. Simon, as we call our new garden pet, was munching away on the nuts he could find. Simon, however, has a big appetite, no let us rephrase that; a huge appetite. After we noticed him around -it was hard not to constantly hear his teeth gnawing on the hard shells-,  no nut has been found since. The other theory is that the late frost we had this year damaged the budding flowers on the trees and therefore the fruit could not grow. We can blame Simon.. or Mother Nature. Anyway, we have no nuts this year. (but still 125 kilos stored in the barn from last year. Hope Simon cannot open barn doors.)

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This brings us to the best find we had this year.

Monpazier is voted number 11 on the list of France’s 20 most beautiful villages. To be honest, the first time we visited this village in March 2015 we were not very impressed. At all.

We send guests to the places we think are special, remarkable, full of history, or a must-see. We have read that Monpazier was voted one of these nice places. Not saying we agreed. But we totally changed our mind! Monpazier is back on the list.

With some investments made, the marketplace looks great (or we got used to the French ‘forgotten glory’ state of buildings) There were flowers, there was life, but above all, we were happily surprised with new cafes and shops.

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The village sits on a hill looking out onto lush valleys. In the distance, you might get a glimpse of Chateau Biron (a must-visit). You drive into the ‘center ville’ through the stone gates of forgotten times and you end up in the market square. Which it is; a square. In virtually every corner you find something. We have Balthazar de la Bastide, a deco and interior shop with pottery and goodies for your garden. You can go back in time with a “Portrait photo en costume 1900” for men, women, and children. Another ‘Antiquities’ shop called La Petite Credence is to be found a few meters away and for your real French decoration stuff, you have to walk in at Gaya. A feel-good place where you find country-style clocks, metal-wired chicken, hardwood tables, and everything for a French touch in your home.

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A few years ago we ended up in the only open place in town. A restaurant with a white stone floor, with an atmosphere of a dead fly and after 2 pm almost nothing to eat, except soup… Time has changed, big time.

Outside this October sun kissed our skin, blue skies above, and mild temperatures surrounded us, well mild; we talk about 25 degrees in autumn.. Tourists are happily eating and drinking in the marketplace at the different cafes and restaurants. The food smells good and people seem genuinely content.

But we want to point out one cafe in particular. Outside there are nice tables and chairs lined up. Inside behind the glass entrance, we find a Starbucks-like-cozy-coffee place. Chesterfield seat, red stone brick wall, matching styling on the walls, all in theme and you understand the concept straight away. A nice bar with a school board and chalk paint writing. They have a real cappuccino, Latte macchiatos, and everything in between. (Normal cappuccino in France means it’s with wiped cream and a coffee with added milk: you order as a cafe crème. It is not with cream but with milk. Just to complicate things..) We are happily surprised with the coffee choices and the mugs that it’s served in. And then we find out they also have smoothies and organic food! And a brunch on Sunday with pancakes, sandwiches, and cheeses… What in the world…? So yes, it is possible. It is possible to have a modern place in the countryside of France called the Dordogne.

To check our (bad) French: ‘Doesn’t Ecureuil mean Squirrel?’ And yes it does! We are complimented by the nice staff. So also for that reason: Check the Ecureuil Cafe in Monpazier for GOOD coffee and breakfast/milkshakes/smoothies/snacks/brunch/lunch. Our best find this year.

Ecureuil Cafe | Place central 24540 Monpazier | 0553616217 | lecureuilcafe@orange.fr