Sometimes we feel completely closed off from the world here in the southwestern part of France. January is the month of – 50 Shades of Grey -. Some complain about it, but I love it. I think there is a reason why nature takes a nap when it’s cold and boring outside. It needs rest after that really busy season of hot summer that rolls in the beautiful long season of autumn. There are no 3 months straight spring, summer, autumn, or winter. And here in the forgotten world of January and the Dordogne, there is just a small nook that is registered for winter. Yes, it snows. And yes, it’s definitely cold, especially at night. But no other homecoming to the Dordogne than sniffing those smells like a haunting dog on a Sunday; all those roaring wood stoves and fireplaces with burning French oak.
If you arrive in the dark, you feel like Elon Musk built a Starfleet to Mars and you missed that ship. There will be no life -other than crossing deer, badgers, and foxes, that also had no desire to leave planet Earth-, and there will be no light; all shutters, blinds, curtains, everything that can cover up the proof of life is hidden. No sound; French people tend to stay at home in the winter evenings, drinking their homemade red wines. No terrace is occupied, and most of the restaurants have also adjusted to the hibernation of men and closed for the season. The rolling fog, coming from the Dordogne River or the Vezere when the water is warmer than the outside temperature takes over the outer banks, the valleys, and will climb up onto the hills. Leaving every sound dampened. And the world is silent.
In the morning when the world decides it’s time for a beautiful day, the sun will come out late. And after a frosty night, it can only be described as magical. Driving down the hill, direction the artist of bread and croissants in the nearby village, the river is waking up. The fog will leave the trees covered in a white breakable coat against a blue sky. Stepping into the bakery I am first in line because there are no tourists and well, the rest of the inhabitants also crawled back under the rock where their ancestors the Cromagnon came from, ages ago. They also survived winter. In their caves. With a fire to keep them warm. Nothing has changed much. We still live in, under, and in between stone walls. We changed however the open fireplace into a more efficient wood burner. I still gather wood daily, also no change there.
So if you ever decide to come to this part of the world. This gentle side of life, in winter, in our 50 Shades of Grey. Be prepared for some true peace and quiet. Smell the Dordogne fog, enjoy those calm wind-free days and drink that red wine in front of that roaring, but contained fire. Have a walk in the mossy green forests and don’t forget to bring a camera. It’s easy to survive winter, just embrace the slow steps in this nook of the year. This is how you survive winter in the Dordogne
-LA MAISON LOUVERIE- 