Sometimes we feel completely closed off from the world here in the southwestern part of France. January is the month of – 50 Shades of Grey -. Some complain about it, but I love it. I think there is a reason why nature takes a nap when it’s cold and boring outside. It needs rest after that really busy season of hot summer that rolls in the beautiful long season of autumn. There are no 3 months straight spring, summer, autumn, or winter. And here in the forgotten world of January and the Dordogne, there is just a small nook that is registered for winter. Yes, it snows. And yes, it’s definitely cold, especially at night. But no other homecoming to the Dordogne than sniffing those smells like a haunting dog on a Sunday; all those roaring wood stoves and fireplaces with burning French oak.
If you arrive in the dark, you feel like Elon Musk built a Starfleet to Mars and you missed that ship. There will be no life -other than crossing deer, badgers, and foxes, that also had no desire to leave planet Earth-, and there will be no light; all shutters, blinds, curtains, everything that can cover up the proof of life is hidden. No sound; French people tend to stay at home in the winter evenings, drinking their homemade red wines. No terrace is occupied, and most of the restaurants have also adjusted to the hibernation of men and closed for the season. The rolling fog, coming from the Dordogne River or the Vezere when the water is warmer than the outside temperature takes over the outer banks, the valleys, and will climb up onto the hills. Leaving every sound dampened. And the world is silent.
In the morning when the world decides it’s time for a beautiful day, the sun will come out late. And after a frosty night, it can only be described as magical. Driving down the hill, direction the artist of bread and croissants in the nearby village, the river is waking up. The fog will leave the trees covered in a white breakable coat against a blue sky. Stepping into the bakery I am first in line because there are no tourists and well, the rest of the inhabitants also crawled back under the rock where their ancestors the Cromagnon came from, ages ago. They also survived winter. In their caves. With a fire to keep them warm. Nothing has changed much. We still live in, under, and in between stone walls. We changed however the open fireplace into a more efficient wood burner. I still gather wood daily, also no change there.
So if you ever decide to come to this part of the world. This gentle side of life, in winter, in our 50 Shades of Grey. Be prepared for some true peace and quiet. Smell the Dordogne fog, enjoy those calm wind-free days and drink that red wine in front of that roaring, but contained fire. Have a walk in the mossy green forests and don’t forget to bring a camera. It’s easy to survive winter, just embrace the slow steps in this nook of the year. This is how you survive winter in the Dordogne
If you are a foodie who loves to explore new flavors and experiences, you might want to try truffle hunting in the Dordogne region of France with our local guide Xavier Mathiaud from Ma Terre Premiere.
Truffles are delicates that grow underground near the roots of certain trees, such as oak, hazel, and beech. They are highly prized for their rich aroma and flavor and can fetch very high prices in the market. Some of the most famous types of truffles are the black Périgord trufflesfrom the Dordogne.
Truffle hunting is a traditional activity that involves searching for these hidden delicacies with the help of trained animals, such as dogs or pigs (or even flies..). The animals can sniff out the truffles and dig them up, while the hunter follows them with a special tool called a truffle hook or a truffle knife. The hunter must be careful not to damage the truffles or the surrounding soil, as this can affect the future growth of the fungus.
How to Find Truffles in the Dordogne
The Dordogne is one of the best places to find truffles in France, as it has a favorable climate and soil for their development. The truffle season runs from November to March. During this time, you can find many truffle markets and festivals in the region, where you can buy fresh or preserved truffles, as well as other products made with them, such as oils, cheeses, chocolates, and wines.
If you want to experience truffle hunting yourself
You can book a tour with Xavier, a local truffle expert who will guide you through his own truffle farm. Xavier runs Ma Terre Première, (www.materrepremiere.fr) where you can learn more about his passion and services. He will show you how to find and harvest truffles and share with you his knowledge and secrets about these mysterious foods. You will also get to taste some of his homemade truffle products!
La Maison Louverie has a special autumn deal for you to enjoy the Dordogne even more
La Maison Louverie is a cozy and elegant Perigourdine house just 25 minutes from Bergerac (airport), 45 minutes from Sarlat, and 30 minutes from St. Alvere with its famous truffle market. ( Fly with Transavia, RyanAir, or Flybe)
Stay with 2 for only € 224 a night* in Chambre Truffe on the ground floor.
Or book with 6 for just € 63 p.p.p.n**. (Chambre Figure, 2 pers | Chambre Noix, 2 pers)
Book between the 16th of September and mid-December 2023 and get a goody box with homemade jams, walnuts, and hazelnuts for your winter stock and your Christmas holidays.
Don’t miss this opportunity to discover the magic of truffles in the beautiful Autumn Dordogne.
You are persuaded that you need this holiday and experience this autumn but still have questions? Contact us.
A bientôt at La Maison Louverie!
*Book for a minimum of 4 nights, € 224 a night for 2 people. Stay in the large bedroom downstairs – Chambre Truffe- with an attached bathroom. The pool open till the end of October 2023
**Book 1 or 2 rooms extra for € 75 a night each. No minimum nights. The rooms Chambre Figue and Chambre Noix on the first floor are both available for this Autumn deal and both have a private bathroom. max 2 guests per room.
If you are looking for a way to experience the authentic taste and culture of the Dordogne region, you should not miss the opportunity to visit its food markets. The food markets are where you can find the freshest and most delicious products of the local terroir, such as cheese, bread, wine, honey, truffles, foie gras, walnuts, strawberries, and more. You can also discover the craftsmanship and creativity of the local artisans, who offer a variety of goods such as pottery, jewelry, soap, candles, and textiles. The food markets are also a great place to mingle with the locals and enjoy the lively atmosphere and colorful sights.
The Dordogne region has a rich tradition of food markets, dating back to the Middle Ages. There are hundreds of food markets in the area, each with its own character and specialty. Some are small and cozy, while others are large and bustling. Some are held weekly, while others are seasonal or occasional. Some are focused on organic or artisanal products, while others offer a wide range of items. No matter what your preference or budget is, you will surely find a food market that suits your taste and needs.
To help you plan your visit to the food markets in the Dordogne, we have compiled a list of some of the best and most popular ones in the area. They are organized by day of the week, so you can easily find one that fits your schedule. They are also located in different towns and villages, so you can explore different parts of the region and enjoy its diverse scenery and history.
If you are staying at La Maison Louverie you will be happy to know that most of these food markets are within easy driving distance from your accommodation.
Here is some information about the distance and driving time from La Maison Louverie to each food market in the Dordogne:
Monday
Beynac: 22 km, 28 minutes
Les Eyzies: 24 km, 30 minutes
St. Alvere: 17 km, 23 minutes
Beynac is a small but charming market in a picturesque village on the banks of the Dordogne River. You can find fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and other local delicacies. You can also visit the impressive castle of Beynac, which dates back to the 12th century and offers stunning views of the valley.
Les Eyzies is a small market in a village famous for its prehistoric caves and museums. You can find some organic and artisanal products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, jam, soap, and more. You can also visit the National Museum of Prehistory or explore some of the caves that contain ancient paintings and sculptures.
St. Alvere is a cozy market in a village known for its truffle production. You can find some of the best truffles in the region, as well as other products such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Truffle Museum or join a truffle hunting tour.
Tuesday
Beaumont du Perigord: 19 km, 25 minutes
Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
Le Bugue: 14 km, 20 minutes
Tremolat: 6 km, 10 minutes
Beaumont du Perigord is a large market in a bastide town founded in 1272 by King Edward I of England. You can find a wide range of products such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also admire the medieval architecture and the fortified church of the town.
Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river.
Le Bugue is a lively market in a town on the Vezere river. You can find a variety of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the Aquarium of Perigord Noir or the Village of Bournat, a recreation of a 19th century village.
Tremolat is a charming market in a village on a bend of the Dordogne river. You can find some delicious products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of Tremolat or enjoy the view from the Cingle de Tremolat, a natural lookout point over the river.
Wednesday
Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
Le Buisson: 10 km, 15 minutes
Montignac: 38 km, 45 minutes
Perigueux: 46 km, 50 minutes
Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river .
Le Buisson is a small market in a town on the Dordogne river. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby castle of Commarque.
Montignac is a beautiful market in a town famous for its Lascaux caves. You can find some organic and artisanal products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, jam, soap, and more. You can also visit the Lascaux caves or the International Center for Cave Art, which are among the most impressive prehistoric sites in the world.
Perigueux is a large market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the cathedral of St Front or the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum.
Thursday
Domme: 29 km, 35 minutes
Lalinde: 6 km, 10 minutes
Monpazier: 25 km, 30 minutes
Tremolat: See Monday
Domme is a small market in one of the most beautiful villages in France. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also admire the panoramic view of the Dordogne Valley or visit the cave of Domme.
Lalinde is a lively market in a town on the Dordogne River. You can find a variety of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby abbey of Cadouin.
Monpazier is a lovely market in one of the best-preserved bastide towns in France. You can find some quality products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also admire the medieval architecture and the central square of the town.
Tremolat is a charming market in a village on a bend of the Dordogne River. You can find some delicious products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of Tremolat or enjoy the view from the Cingle de Tremolat, a natural lookout point over the river.
Friday
Le Buisson: See Wednesday
Riberac: 51 km, 1 hour
Riberac is a large market in a town that is famous for its foie gras production. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of St Sulpice or the Museum of Riberac.
Issigeac is a medieval village that dates back to the 13th century. It is located 23 km or 30 minutes away from La Maison Louverie. It has a large market every Sunday, where you can find a wide range of products such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. The market is very popular and attracts many visitors from near and far. You can also admire the historic architecture and the fortified church of the village, which have been preserved for centuries.
Issigeac is also known for its cultural events and festivals throughout the year. Some of the most famous ones are:
The Medieval Festival: This is a two-day event that takes place in July. It celebrates the history and heritage of Issigeac with music, dance, costumes, games, crafts, and food. You can see knights, jugglers, fire-eaters, magicians, and more. You can also participate in workshops and competitions or watch shows and demonstrations.
The Flower Festival: This is a one-day event that takes place in May. It showcases the beauty and diversity of flowers and plants in Issigeac. You can see hundreds of varieties of flowers and plants displayed in the streets, squares, gardens, and houses of the village. You can also buy flowers and plants from local producers or enjoy musical performances and exhibitions.
The Basket Festival: This is a one-day event that takes place in August. It honors the tradition and craftsmanship of basket making in Issigeac. You can see different types of baskets made from various materials such as wicker, straw, bamboo, and more. You can also buy baskets from local artisans or learn how to make your own basket.
Issigeac is a wonderful place to visit if you want to experience the authentic taste and culture of the Dordogne region. You will be amazed by its charm and elegance, as well as its lively and friendly atmosphere. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Issigeac and its market when you are staying at La Maison Louverie.
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