Tag Archives: travel

Unesco sites in the Dordogne

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When I still was a traveler and roamed the planet freely, unburdened, and curious, I lived by the backpackers ‘bible’ the Lonely Planet. The funny thing is, when you travel by yourself you might be many things but not one of them is lonely, but that aside. I was the kind of traveler who knew beforehand what was there to see and what places to visit. The UNESCO (World Heritage list) sites were highlighted in my book and high on my list because even when I was traveling like a hobo, my appetite for beauty, architecture, nature, and history never died contrary to my savings in my bank account.

In fact, when I was about to turn 31, I realized that I had never seen much of that beauty in the world; I spent all my time working, went on vacation once a year to a party island, and sometimes visited my sister overseas. What did I want to see before I died? I made a list of those places in the world. I discovered that they were all UNESCO sites, and that’s when I decided to leave everything behind and wanted to travel. And what was said, was done; I quit the job, sold the house, and strapped on a backpack.

I came prepared. I was a traveler like that. I did a Vini Vidi Vici at places. A serious traveler I was, quick, no-nonsense, travel with an open mind, spend time in places where there needs to be time, and sleep at night preferably on a bus so transport and accommodation are one. I visited all the continents with my trusted Lonely Planet guide and ‘ticked off’ many boxes.

On my last big trip, this was going from Ushuaia, Argentina via the South Pole, to South Georgia, Tristan da Cunha, St. Helena (yes, I talk about the place where Napoleon Bonapart was exiled) and more islands, I met a lot of fellow world travelers, people that, mostly had 40 years on me, have seen – so much – of the world. I felt like this was my crowd! There was this one gentleman from Illinois, we call him Donald P. and he was in the top 2 of the most traveled people in the world and with the most visited UNESCO sites on his name. Can you imagine that? A walking Lonely planet with all the intel of the most beautiful places to see in the world. And as an -AI- now, he could tell about all those places including the ones that didn’t survive recent wars.

I had great admiration for Donald and an even greater admiration for World Heritage sites than before. If only people would travel more, to understand each other better and learn how to respect other cultures. Also knowing that people make so much effort to get their ‘Pet project’ on the world stage of preservation and respect. No matter if it’s a natural phenomenon, a temple, a fortification, or a cave. They need to be protected and nurtured for an understanding of man, and safe keep.

On that same trip, in that well-traveled crowd, I met the only other person who was in my age group, fell head over heels, and now call him my husband. We moved to the Dordogne a couple of months later. Apparently, I live and love like I travel: quick, no-nonsense, love with an open mind, spend time in places where there needs to be time.

Setting up our Country Retreat for future guests, we decided to keep the Sundays to ourselves and explore. Not only to tell our guests where to go and what to do but also for ourselves: to appreciate where we landed our lives, the southwest of France is just fascinating and full of Heritage sites.

Two UNESCO sites are in our backyard (8 km away) and we visit them always when we have friends and family over. It’s the Abbey of Cadouin and the old church of Saint Avit Senieur, both on the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. And needless to say; both with such an interesting history.

And we almost forgot that we just ‘Live’ in a UNESCO site:

Bassin de la Dordogne | Man and the Biospere Programme (MAB)
The Dordogne rises on the flanks of Puy de Sancy (1,658 m) in the town of Mont Dore, from the confluence of two small torrents: the DORE and DOGNE. The river traverses a variety of landscapes and functions – mountains, hydropower, large meanders -before flowing into the Gironde at the Ambès beak. The Dordogne is one of the mythical rivers that drain the center of France and provide important ecosystem services to the region.

We just visited the world-famous Lascaux caves in Montignac. This is a must-see! Unbelievably interesting and only found in the ’40s by a couple of young men who lost their dog. (Un)fortunately, people can no longer visit the original cave as there is the danger of extinguishing what they once created, simply by exhaling CO2. But what they created in the modern International Centre for Parietal Art is ‘real’. There are guided tours in different languages and suitable for all ages. Plus a perfect cool down on hot summer days.

Another part we visited and less than a 30-minute drive is the Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère Valley a UNESCO World Heritage Site in France since 1979. It specifically lists 15 prehistoric sites in the Vézère Valley mostly in and around Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, which has been called the “Capital of Prehistory”. This valley is exceptionally rich in prehistoric sites, with more than 150 known sites including 25 decorated caves, and has played an essential role in the study of the Paleolithic era and its art. Three of the sites are the namesakes for prehistoric periods; the Micoquien (named after La Micoque), Mousterian (after Le Moustier), and Magdalenian (after Abri de la Madeleine). Furthermore, the Cro-Magnon rock shelter gave its name to the Cro-Magnon, the generic name for the European early modern humans.

We still have to go to the Cathedrale of Saint Front in Perigueux. This Saint has a special place in the Dordogne by fighting the water dragon of the Dordogne; Le Coulobre (see previous post) and if we have more time we definitely drive to the beautiful Rocamadour (65 km) to see the Basilique Saint Sauveur and its crypt.

When we decided we needed to have – a change of scenery -from our holiday-home-base we went to the beautiful wine area of St-Emilion (86 km) which is close to my husband’s and his family’s hearts. Yes, from time to time we also forget that there is more than work in our lives but then we realize, after all these years in the Dordogne we haven’t seen it all and there is still so much to explore; UNESCO sites, some of the ‘most beautiful villages’ of France are in the area, so much history in the old medieval villages (who recently used a lot for filming movies) and let us not forget the pre-history. Maybe we roam the planet a little bit less, but the curiosity of the world is still there. And so easy to reach from our little hamlet that the backpack and the Lonely Planet can be left behind.

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List of UNESCO sites in the Dordogne

  1. Routes of Santiago de Compostela in FranceEglise Saint-Avit (Saint-Avit-Sénieur)France
  2. Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France Eglise abbatiale Notre-Dame de la Nativité (Le Buisson-de-Cadouin)France
  3. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyRoc de Saint-Cirq (Saint-Cirq)France
  4. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLa Mouthe (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  5. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyFont de Gaume (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  6. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyAbri de Cro-Magnon (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  7. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyAbri du Poisson (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  8. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLe Grand Roc (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  9. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLaugerie basse (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  10. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLaugerie haute (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  11. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLa Micoque (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  12. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLa Madeleine (Tursac)France
  13. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLe Moustier (Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère)France
  14. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyCro de Granville (cro de Rouffignac) (Rouffignac-Saint-Cernin-de-Reilhac)France
  15. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLascaux (Montignac)France
  16. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère Valley
  17. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLe Cap Blanc (Marquay)France
  18. Prehistoric Sites and Decorated Caves of the Vézère ValleyLes Combarelles (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil)France
  19. Routes of Santiago de Compostela in FranceCathédrale Saint-Front (Périgueux)France

List of UNESCO sites close to the Dordogne

Also check UNESCO sites in Nouvelle Aquitaine for more sites, just a little bit further like for example Bordeaux.

    The Legend of the Dordogne River Dragon, -Le Coulobre-

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    A long time ago, a legend took root in the Dordogne, France. In times of need and desperation, people always sought to look up and maintain hope – hope for a better future and hope for safety. Allow me to share a story of that hope, which was held by the ancient inhabitants of our village, long before our time.

    The village of Pontours, named after the tower bridge that once stood, was, for many decades, a dreaded obstacle for merchants and travelers alike. To venture south, one had to cross the formidable Dordogne River, with Pontours and Lalinde offering two of the few shallow crossings. Despite appearing deceptively safe with its clear bottom, many attempted to traverse it by foot or boat. However, the current, already strong, used to be even more relentless, claiming the lives of hundreds. Boats would capsize, taking their passengers with them, while others would succumb to the rushing waters, unable to fight against the force. But was it solely the swift river causing such tragedies, or were the haunting tales told to children at bedtime also to blame? Could there truly have been something or someone lurking in the shallow depths of the River Dordogne?

    As the legend goes, there was a cave high above the cliffs of the river where a serpent, a water dragon, or an atrocity of an unearthly reptile was living. Some people described it with fangs, vicious reptilian eyes, a skin made of armored scales, and wings – it was the most frightening thing, the Coulobre, as they called it. It kidnapped people and drew animals into its lair to devour them, leaving nothing but bones behind. The villagers were desperate and didn’t know what to do; the future looked bleak. However, where there is hope, there is a way. One brave villager took it upon himself to journey to Perigeux, the capital of the Perigord, to seek the help of a bishop.

    This bishop’s name was Sir Front and he chose according to one legend violence to defeat the water dragon. He lured him with great speech out of his lair and the Coulobre appeared in front of him. He shot him, fearlessly with a bow and an arrow with fire, till the excruciating pain caused the dragon to lose his balance and plunge into the river. Another legend is that with a special sword, he was killed and Sir Front blew the last thrust into the heart of the beast before his ending. (A few different stories are told about the ending but these are the most spectacular ones). The dragon, according to this lore fell back into the waters where he roamed and killed so many and it is said that in summer when the water in the Dordogne River is very low, you could see his fossilized vertebra on the bottom of the river. But some will only see boulders or big rocks…

    To thank the great Sir Front for his effort and his bravery, the people built a chapel on the steep cliff that overlooks the Dordogne River and the village of Lalinde. Bishop Front was after this known as the Holy Front or Saint Front. The little chapel got his name, as well as the next village direction Bergerac, Couze et St. Front. The chapel can still be visited and stands tall with its intriguing history in a beautiful green mossed environment. In the summer there is a Coulobre festival and you will find from time to time artwork around Lalinde in the form of a dragon. Also on the market square in Lalinde is a bustling restaurant since 1970 named after this creature.

    Some people believe that long ago, St. Front didn’t kill the Coulobre. Instead, it’s said that he used his willpower to make the Coulobre stay away from human lands. The Coulobre supposedly went west and was last spotted heading towards the ocean. Legends say that the creature is now waiting for a chance to seek revenge and emerge from the depths of the Dordogne River again.

    Le Coulobre, Dordogne River

    How to survive the winter in the Dordogne

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    Sometimes we feel completely closed off from the world here in the southwestern part of France. January is the month of – 50 Shades of Grey -. Some complain about it, but I love it. I think there is a reason why nature takes a nap when it’s cold and boring outside. It needs rest after that really busy season of hot summer that rolls in the beautiful long season of autumn. There are no 3 months straight spring, summer, autumn, or winter. And here in the forgotten world of January and the Dordogne, there is just a small nook that is registered for winter. Yes, it snows. And yes, it’s definitely cold, especially at night. But no other homecoming to the Dordogne than sniffing those smells like a haunting dog on a Sunday; all those roaring wood stoves and fireplaces with burning French oak.

    If you arrive in the dark, you feel like Elon Musk built a Starfleet to Mars and you missed that ship. There will be no life -other than crossing deer, badgers, and foxes, that also had no desire to leave planet Earth-, and there will be no light; all shutters, blinds, curtains, everything that can cover up the proof of life is hidden. No sound; French people tend to stay at home in the winter evenings, drinking their homemade red wines. No terrace is occupied, and most of the restaurants have also adjusted to the hibernation of men and closed for the season. The rolling fog, coming from the Dordogne River or the Vezere when the water is warmer than the outside temperature takes over the outer banks, the valleys, and will climb up onto the hills. Leaving every sound dampened. And the world is silent.

    In the morning when the world decides it’s time for a beautiful day, the sun will come out late. And after a frosty night, it can only be described as magical. Driving down the hill, direction the artist of bread and croissants in the nearby village, the river is waking up. The fog will leave the trees covered in a white breakable coat against a blue sky. Stepping into the bakery I am first in line because there are no tourists and well, the rest of the inhabitants also crawled back under the rock where their ancestors the Cromagnon came from, ages ago. They also survived winter. In their caves. With a fire to keep them warm. Nothing has changed much. We still live in, under, and in between stone walls. We changed however the open fireplace into a more efficient wood burner. I still gather wood daily, also no change there.

    So if you ever decide to come to this part of the world. This gentle side of life, in winter, in our 50 Shades of Grey. Be prepared for some true peace and quiet. Smell the Dordogne fog, enjoy those calm wind-free days and drink that red wine in front of that roaring, but contained fire. Have a walk in the mossy green forests and don’t forget to bring a camera. It’s easy to survive winter, just embrace the slow steps in this nook of the year. This is how you survive winter in the Dordogne