the dordogne’s best kept secrets; candlelight evenings and cave sailing


If you are looking for a magical and unforgettable experience in the Dordogne region of France, you should not miss the candlelight evenings in the Marqueyssac Gardens and the boat trip in the Padirac caves. These are two of the most amazing attractions in the area, and they will leave you breathless with their beauty and charm.

The candlelight evenings in the Marqueyssac Gardens are a unique event that takes place every Thursday evening in July and August, from 7 pm until midnight. The gardens are illuminated by over 2000 candles, creating a fairy-tale atmosphere that invites you to explore the winding paths, the exotic plants, and the stunning views over the Dordogne valley. You can also enjoy live music, dancing, and entertainment on the terrace of the chateau, or relax in one of the many romantic spots along the way. The candlelight evenings are a perfect way to discover the Marqueyssac Gardens, which are considered one of the most beautiful gardens in France.

The boat trip in the Padirac caves is another must-see attraction that will take you on a journey to the center of the earth. The Padirac caves are one of the most famous caves in Europe, and they are home to a subterranean river that flows through spectacular galleries and chambers. You can access the caves by a lift or stairs, and then board a boat that will take you along the river for about 500 meters. You will marvel at the incredible formations, such as the Grande Pendeloque, a 60-meter-high stalactite that hangs over the Lac de la Pluie, or the Salle du Grand Dôme, with its 94-meter-high vault. The boat trip is an unforgettable adventure that will make you feel like you are in another world.

The candlelight evenings in the Marqueyssac gardens and the boat trip in the Padirac caves are two of the best ways to enjoy the Dordogne region in a different and enchanting way. They are both suitable for all ages and tastes, and they will make your holiday memorable and special. If you want to book your tickets or find out more information, you can visit their websites12 or contact them by phone or email12. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience the magic of the Dordogne!

Squirrels of the Dordogne

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Last week we had a squirrel in the garden. Not so common for us. We usually see them as road kill between the river and the forest – not so nice. But this one was alive and free to admire.

We have the benefit of having some walnut trees in the fruit orchard. Simon, as we call our new garden pet, was munching away on the nuts he could find. Simon, however, has a big appetite, no let us rephrase that; a huge appetite. After we noticed him around -it was hard not to constantly hear his teeth gnawing on the hard shells-,  no nut has been found since. The other theory is that the late frost we had this year damaged the budding flowers on the trees and therefore the fruit could not grow. We can blame Simon.. or Mother Nature. Anyway, we have no nuts this year. (but still 125 kilos stored in the barn from last year. Hope Simon cannot open barn doors.)

This brings us to the best find we had this year.

Monpazier is voted number 11 on the list of France’s 20 most beautiful villages. To be honest, the first time we visited this village in March 2015 we were not very impressed. At all.

We send guests to the places we think are special, remarkable, full of history, or a must-see. We have read that Monpazier was voted one of these nice places. Not saying we agreed. But we totally changed our mind! Monpazier is back on the list.

With some investments made, the marketplace looks great (or we got used to the French ‘forgotten glory’ state of buildings) There were flowers, there was life, but above all, we were happily surprised with new cafes and shops.

The village sits on a hill looking out onto lush valleys. In the distance, you might get a glimpse of Chateau Biron (a must-visit). You drive into the ‘center ville’ through the stone gates of forgotten times and you end up in the market square. Which it is; a square. In virtually every corner you find something. We have Balthazar de la Bastide, a deco and interior shop with pottery and goodies for your garden. You can go back in time with a “Portrait photo en costume 1900” for men, women, and children. Another ‘Antiquities’ shop called La Petite Credence is to be found a few meters away and for your real French decoration stuff, you have to walk in at Gaya. A feel-good place where you find country-style clocks, metal-wired chicken, hardwood tables, and everything for a French touch in your home.

A few years ago we ended up in the only open place in town. A restaurant with a white stone floor, with an atmosphere of a dead fly and after 2 pm almost nothing to eat, except soup… Time has changed, big time.

Outside this October sun kissed our skin, blue skies above, and mild temperatures surrounded us, well mild; we talk about 25 degrees in autumn.. Tourists are happily eating and drinking in the marketplace at the different cafes and restaurants. The food smells good and people seem genuinely content.

But we want to point out one cafe in particular. Outside there are nice tables and chairs lined up. Inside behind the glass entrance, we find a Starbucks-like-cozy-coffee place. Chesterfield seat, red stone brick wall, matching styling on the walls, all in theme and you understand the concept straight away. A nice bar with a school board and chalk paint writing. They have a real cappuccino, Latte macchiatos, and everything in between. (Normal cappuccino in France means it’s with wiped cream and a coffee with added milk: you order as a cafe crème. It is not with cream but with milk. Just to complicate things..) We are happily surprised with the coffee choices and the mugs that it’s served in. And then we find out they also have smoothies and organic food! And a brunch on Sunday with pancakes, sandwiches, and cheeses… What in the world…? So yes, it is possible. It is possible to have a modern place in the countryside of France called the Dordogne.

To check our (bad) French: ‘Doesn’t Ecureuil mean Squirrel?’ And yes it does! We are complimented by the nice staff. So also for that reason: Check the Ecureuil Cafe in Monpazier for GOOD coffee and breakfast/milkshakes/smoothies/snacks/brunch/lunch. Our best find this year.

Ecureuil Cafe | Place central 24540 Monpazier | 0553616217 | lecureuilcafe@orange.fr

Aquitaine-tober

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Maple tree in autumn colors

Everybody knows about the phenomenon Indian-summer and some are even ready to fly across the world to the North American continent to watch nature over there. Maybe it is in advertising or maybe simply because people don’t know that Indian summer is a ‘period’ and not a place. October is probably the most beautiful month in the Aquitaine region. Because of this period of warm and dry weather after rain, the colors are truly mind blowing. Even in the Sixteens-chapel in Rome, you will never find so much gold as here in the autumn season. The forests go from green to red, yellow and golden. If it were a painting you would bet it can never be real.

End of summer brings also freshness and coziness. The days are still nice and warm, sometimes with a cooling breeze. Around diner time you walk around with a scarf or light jacket and in the evening you drink a beautiful local wine in front of the fireplace. Because evenings and nights are getting cooler.

The grapes are picked – we are waiting for the new wines – there is an abundance of ready to be harvest other fruit. We would call it: ‘overkill’ especially our figs. (Can somebody just please come around and eat some. And then some…?) And no nuts – no glory: the hazelnuts and walnuts are ready too.

So if you have time and you love to photograph, you are a food l-o-v-e-r, you love touristy places but not the tourist.. Then this is your cue. October will not let you down. We call it Aquitaine-tober, because we think the Dordogne is as pretty as the American this time of year!

Market days

How to Enjoy the Food Markets in the Dordogne

If you are looking for a way to experience the authentic taste and culture of the Dordogne region, you should not miss the opportunity to visit its food markets. The food markets are where you can find the freshest and most delicious products of the local terroir, such as cheese, bread, wine, honey, truffles, foie gras, walnuts, strawberries, and more. You can also discover the craftsmanship and creativity of the local artisans, who offer a variety of goods such as pottery, jewelry, soap, candles, and textiles. The food markets are also a great place to mingle with the locals and enjoy the lively atmosphere and colorful sights.

The Dordogne region has a rich tradition of food markets, dating back to the Middle Ages. There are hundreds of food markets in the area, each with its own character and specialty. Some are small and cozy, while others are large and bustling. Some are held weekly, while others are seasonal or occasional. Some are focused on organic or artisanal products, while others offer a wide range of items. No matter what your preference or budget is, you will surely find a food market that suits your taste and needs.

To help you plan your visit to the food markets in the Dordogne, we have compiled a list of some of the best and most popular ones in the area. They are organized by day of the week, so you can easily find one that fits your schedule. They are also located in different towns and villages, so you can explore different parts of the region and enjoy its diverse scenery and history.

If you are staying at La Maison Louverie you will be happy to know that most of these food markets are within easy driving distance from your accommodation.

Here is some information about the distance and driving time from La Maison Louverie to each food market in the Dordogne:

Monday

  • Beynac: 22 km, 28 minutes
  • Les Eyzies: 24 km, 30 minutes
  • St. Alvere: 17 km, 23 minutes

Beynac is a small but charming market in a picturesque village on the banks of the Dordogne River. You can find fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and other local delicacies. You can also visit the impressive castle of Beynac, which dates back to the 12th century and offers stunning views of the valley.

Les Eyzies is a small market in a village famous for its prehistoric caves and museums. You can find some organic and artisanal products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, jam, soap, and more. You can also visit the National Museum of Prehistory or explore some of the caves that contain ancient paintings and sculptures.

St. Alvere is a cozy market in a village known for its truffle production. You can find some of the best truffles in the region, as well as other products such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Truffle Museum or join a truffle hunting tour.

Tuesday

  • Beaumont du Perigord: 19 km, 25 minutes
  • Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
  • Le Bugue: 14 km, 20 minutes
  • Tremolat: 6 km, 10 minutes

Beaumont du Perigord is a large market in a bastide town founded in 1272 by King Edward I of England. You can find a wide range of products such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also admire the medieval architecture and the fortified church of the town.

Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river.

Le Bugue is a lively market in a town on the Vezere river. You can find a variety of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the Aquarium of Perigord Noir or the Village of Bournat, a recreation of a 19th century village.

Tremolat is a charming market in a village on a bend of the Dordogne river. You can find some delicious products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of Tremolat or enjoy the view from the Cingle de Tremolat, a natural lookout point over the river.

Wednesday

  • Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
  • Le Buisson: 10 km, 15 minutes
  • Montignac: 38 km, 45 minutes
  • Perigueux: 46 km, 50 minutes

Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river .

Le Buisson is a small market in a town on the Dordogne river. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby castle of Commarque.

Montignac is a beautiful market in a town famous for its Lascaux caves. You can find some organic and artisanal products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, jam, soap, and more. You can also visit the Lascaux caves or the International Center for Cave Art, which are among the most impressive prehistoric sites in the world.

Perigueux is a large market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the cathedral of St Front or the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum.

Thursday

  • Domme: 29 km, 35 minutes
  • Lalinde: 6 km, 10 minutes
  • Monpazier: 25 km, 30 minutes
  • Tremolat: See Monday

Domme is a small market in one of the most beautiful villages in France. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also admire the panoramic view of the Dordogne Valley or visit the cave of Domme.

Lalinde is a lively market in a town on the Dordogne River. You can find a variety of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby abbey of Cadouin.

Monpazier is a lovely market in one of the best-preserved bastide towns in France. You can find some quality products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also admire the medieval architecture and the central square of the town.

Tremolat is a charming market in a village on a bend of the Dordogne River. You can find some delicious products here, such as cheese, bread, wine, foie gras, nuts, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of Tremolat or enjoy the view from the Cingle de Tremolat, a natural lookout point over the river.

Friday

  • Le Buisson: See Wednesday
  • Riberac: 51 km, 1 hour

Riberac is a large market in a town that is famous for its foie gras production. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also visit the Romanesque church of St Sulpice or the Museum of Riberac.

Saturday

  • Beaumont du Perigord: See Tuesday
  • Bergerac: See Tuesday
  • Le Bugue: See Monday

Sunday

  • Bergerac: 29 km, 35 minutes
  • Couze St Front: 9 km, 15 minutes
  • Issigeac: 23 km, 30 minutes
  • St Cyprien: 20 km, 25 minutes

Bergerac is a bustling market in one of the largest towns in the region. You can find almost anything you need here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, shoes, and more. You can also visit the old town and the wine museum or take a boat trip on the Dordogne river.

Couze St Front is a small market in a village on the Couze river. You can find some fresh products here, such as fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, wine, and more. You can also enjoy a walk by the river or visit the nearby paper mill museum.

Issigeac is a large market in a medieval village that dates back to the 13th century. You can find a wide range of products here, such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. You can also admire the historic architecture and the fortified church of the village.

Issigeac is a medieval village that dates back to the 13th century. It is located 23 km or 30 minutes away from La Maison Louverie. It has a large market every Sunday, where you can find a wide range of products such as meat, fish, cheese, bread, wine, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and more. The market is very popular and attracts many visitors from near and far. You can also admire the historic architecture and the fortified church of the village, which have been preserved for centuries.

Issigeac is also known for its cultural events and festivals throughout the year. Some of the most famous ones are:

  • The Medieval Festival: This is a two-day event that takes place in July. It celebrates the history and heritage of Issigeac with music, dance, costumes, games, crafts, and food. You can see knights, jugglers, fire-eaters, magicians, and more. You can also participate in workshops and competitions or watch shows and demonstrations.
  • The Flower Festival: This is a one-day event that takes place in May. It showcases the beauty and diversity of flowers and plants in Issigeac. You can see hundreds of varieties of flowers and plants displayed in the streets, squares, gardens, and houses of the village. You can also buy flowers and plants from local producers or enjoy musical performances and exhibitions.
  • The Basket Festival: This is a one-day event that takes place in August. It honors the tradition and craftsmanship of basket making in Issigeac. You can see different types of baskets made from various materials such as wicker, straw, bamboo, and more. You can also buy baskets from local artisans or learn how to make your own basket.

Issigeac is a wonderful place to visit if you want to experience the authentic taste and culture of the Dordogne region. You will be amazed by its charm and elegance, as well as its lively and friendly atmosphere. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Issigeac and its market when you are staying at La Maison Louverie. 

France’s 20 most beautiful villages

According to the British website and newspaper “The Telegraph”, there are 20 villages in France you have to visit. We have our own thoughts about some of them, but having said that; some of the places are jaw-droppingly-gorgeous.

If you haven’t decide yet were to go on a holiday, have a long weekend off, or you have more of an interest in sightseeing and culture (than getting drunk at a bar or lying at the beach all day) we promise: the Dordogne is the place to be!

We have the privilege to be in the center of 3 of those stunning villages:

  1. Ranked number 1.     Domme (less then 50 km)
  2. Ranked number 11.   Monpazier (25 km)
  3. Ranked number 14.   Roque-Cageac (43 km)

We have some availability left in July and August, so check our calendar to see when we can roll out the red carpet for you.

If you are fortunate enough to go on a holiday outside of the high season, September and October are possibly the nicest months in the Dordogne.

Please feel free to drop us a line or ask questions about the region and La Maison Louverie.